Geoff Hamilton er like marzipan
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Four tips for purchasing and caring for roses
Modern roses have at least three powerful branches, all shooting from or around the grafting point to provide the best quality. Old roses in the A class can differ from modern roses by having fragile and fewer branches. It's their nature. Roses in pots can be transplanted all year round but are not better (but more expensive) than bare-rooted roses transplanted in late fall.
Pot roses are taken out of the pot and transplanted so that the grafting point is 2 – 4 inches under the ground.
The long roots of the bare-rooted plants can be shortened to stimulate new root growth and transplanted like the pot roses.
Never put compost, fertilizer or sphagnum in the plant hole. When transplanting in spring, put the roses in a bucket of water a few hours before transplanting. Then put in the plant and fill the hole half up with soil. Irrigate and put in more soil.
Never transplant roses in a soil that has previously been used for roses. If the roses are to be transplanted in the same place, replace all the soil in the planting hole in a diameter of 19.7 inches and a depth of 23.6 inches.
Do not fertilize too much and not too little. Transplanted roses require more frequent fertilizer than roses grown from seeds. Roses planted in the fall should not be fertilized until spring. Roses planted in the spring should be fertilized after three weeks.
Fertilize first in mid-March. Preferably with both natural and NPK fertilizer. For example, a medium-sized plant should get a small handful of organic fertilizer and a small handful or 3.5 ounces of NPK 14-3-18, or 12-5-14, but nothing with a too high nitrogen content (the first number should not be too high).
It helps growth. Spread the fertilizer so it does not go towards the middle (the fertilizer should not touch the stem) but away from the plant. Fertilize a second time in May according to the same principle with approx. 0.9 – 1.7 ounces and the third time in mid-July with 0.9 ounces.
If no water comes from the sky, then irrigate with 20 - 40 litres approx. every fourteen days. You can check the need by gently digging 7.8 inches into the ground. If the soil can be shaped like a lump, everything is ok. Using a garden hose for a long period promotes diseases such as rust or the outer buds rotting. Irrigate in the evening when evaporation is at its lowest.
Om Lars Lund
Danish horticulturist and journalist
Lars Lund has for many years engaged in the garden and greenhouse. Lars has published many books about greenhouses, and he has participated in many Danish horticultural TV shows. He is a walking garden encyclopaedia, and he has answers for most basic cultivation questions – also the more ambitious ones.